When changing alloys in the Electrovert solder pot the following procedure should be followed. Make sure to wear all safety equipment and take the proper precautions as described in the machine manual while working around molten solder.
- Remove flow ducts, pumps, and nozzles from the solder bath. Note: This process should be started with the solder pot heaters on.
- Move each component individually to a safe, protected surface and immediately clean as much solder off the exposed surface as possible. Use a natural hair paint brush (horsehair brush) to assist in cleaning the surfaces. Important: Ensure that all dross is removed from under all curve plates of the nozzle. This is best achieved while the nozzle is hot.
- When cleaning the flow duct, tilt the flow duct towards the pump opening to drain any solder left in the duct. Keep the flow duct over a bucket or protected area and avoid splattering the solder.
- Allow components to cool. After the flow duct is cool, peel off solder that can be reached in the throat and pump opening of the flow duct. Use the scrapers provided in the tool kit. Lightly scrape; do not gouge the component surfaces. Once the flow duct is cooled the solder remaining inside the flow duct should easily peel from the inside surfaces.
- De-dross the solder bath.
- Ready to start draining the solder bath.
- Leave solder heaters on while draining. NOTE: Remove the thermocouple from the solder pot lip and place the tip of the thermocouple into the molten solder. Ensure the tip of the thermocouple remains in contact with the solder during the draining process.
- Using the drain valve (reference machine manual for proper operation) drain the solder into a metal container to make 30 to 40 lb. ingots. Teflon coated bread pans found in the baking section at your local grocery store work good for this. Note: Do not fill the pans to the top. Fill ½ to ¾ full. Fill 8 to 10 pans at a time. Let solder cool in pan and dump pan when solder solidifies completely through. Cooling takes approximately 10 minutes per pan depending on how high they are filled.
- Scrape the side of the solder pot casting with a piece of cardboard to remove any solder that may stick. Use stiff cardboard; a ¼” thick x 8” x 12” piece of cardboard works the best. Repeat this often as the solder is draining. Between each fill and waiting while the ingots cool is a good time to perform this.
- Turn solder pot heaters off when there is approximately ½” solder depth left in the pot. Make sure to keep the drain hole in the pot clean and free of any dross or debris.
- At this point you may have to use the cardboard scraper to direct the remaining solder to the drain hole.
- Continue draining until a puddle of solder remains that does not contact the sides of the pot. Use the cardboard scrapper to form the puddle in the middle of the pot. Scrap all remaining solder/dross into the puddle. Allow puddles to solidify. Cooling can be accelerated by using a fan. Once the solder puddle has solidified the solidified solder can be easily removed from the pot. Use gloves to remove, the solder will still be hot.
- To reduce the possibility of contamination of the new alloy it is recommended to do a tin wash of the solder pot. If re-using any internal components such as flow ducts, these components will need to be tin washed as well. Reassemble the flow ducts pumps and nozzles into the tin pot and pump a wave on both nozzles for 15 minutes.
- Remove the nozzles, flow ducts and pumps cleaning off all residues using the same procedure as above.
- Drain the tin out of the pot following the same instructions used for draining the Tin/Lead alloy.
- After tin washing, the solder pot is ready to be loaded with a new alloy. Note: When loading lead-free alloy, the pumps, flow ducts and nozzles must be lead free compatible.